HUASCARAN (6768m)

 

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DIFFICULTY:  hard

DURATION: 6- 7 Days

RECOMENDED TIME: From June to September

LOCATION: Cordillera Blanca

AVARAGE TEMPERATURE: During the day between 14° C  to 20° C

During the night between -15°C  and on the top  -25°C

Huascaran is the highest mountain of Peru, and the highest of any mountains situated in the tropics. It is the principal objective of many climbers that visit the Cordillera Blanca. Although not especially technical, the altitude makes it a challenging mountain to climb. A previous, good acclimatization program is essential, and we always recommend an acclimatization trek followed by a preparation peak such as Pisco, Vallunaraju or Yanapaccha.

ITENERARY

DAY 1: HUARAZ  3100M – MANCOS VILLAGE 2500M – MUSHO VILLAGE 3000M – HUASCARAN’S BASE CAMP 4200M

Departure from Huaraz at 7:00 am. toward north side of Callejon de Huaylas until Mancos at 2500m, after that we will drive on dirt road until reach Musho village, where we will meet with the donkey driver and donkeys, who are going to transport our climbing gear until the base camp at 4200m.

* Driving time: 2 hours / walking time: 4- 5 hours

DAY 2: FROM HUASCARAN’S BASE CAMP 4200M   TO CAMP 1 (5350M).

This day after we’ll have breakfast at 8:00 am, after that we will put on our climbing gear, to start walking up on rocky section crossing the moraine camp located at 4850m, we will continue our way moving on rocky path until reach the glacier edge, then we will traverse the glacier to reach the camp 1 at 5350m. where we’ll set up our campsite.

*Climbing time: 5- 6 Hours

DAY 3: FROM CAMP 1 5350M TO CAMP 2 (6000M).

After our breakfast we will start climbing up toward the col passing on the way up by a little bit dangerous avalanche site until reach the col in the middle of couple peaks, in the afternoon we will enjoy one of the most impressive sunsets in the whole Cordillera Blanca. Overnight camp at Huascaran second high camp.

*Climbing time: 4 Hours

DAY 4: FROM CAMP 2 6000M – HUASCARAN SUMMIT (6768M SOUTHSIDE) – DESCENT TO CAMP 2

This day we will have breakfast at midnight then we start walking up on switchbacks with some steep and slope sections, after 7 hours climbing up we will reach the southside summit at 6768m, from the summit we will have a breathtaking view to the cordillera Blanca, then we descend on the same route on rappels at difficult parts until get to our campsite.

*Climbing time: 10- 12 hours (ascent & descent).

DAY 5: DESCENT FROM CAMP 2  TO  BASE CAMP

This day we will get up early too to pick up our tents and all the equipment to start descending until the base camp, during our descend we will be careful because there are some parts which are dangerous because of the seracs, our guide will tell you which route to follow and how to descend. We will get to the base camp at around 8- 9 am. Once here you’ll have breakfast and spend the rest of the day lying to recover energy.

*descent:5 hours (descent).

DAY 6: DESCENT FROM BASE CAMP TO MUSHO – HUARAZ

We’ll have breakfast at 7:00 am then we’ll get ready to continue the way down the same path until get to Musho where our private van will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz city

SERVICES  INCLUDED

  • Acclimatization tour to Churup lake 4450M.
  • Meal (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • North face tent (04 season)
  • Kitchen tent (Base Camp)
  • Dining tent (Base Camp)
  • Toilet tent(Base Camp)
  • Certificated Mountain  guide ( English spoken)
  • Certificated cook
  • Donkeys
  • Donkey driver.
  • Kitchen and dining full utensils. Chair, table, stove, gas, plates, caps, forks (Base Camp)
  • first aid kit
  • private transport
  • Porters
  • Hot water to clean up your hands and face.
  • Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
  • Include last day typical dinner and drink
  • rope, ice peaks, ice screw

SERVICES  NOT INCLUDED

  • International flights to Lima / Peru
  • Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz and Huaraz – Lima
  • Lost luggage
  • Hotel in Huaraz and Lima
  • Meals in restaurants in Huaraz and Lima
  • transaction fee not included in total
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park, s/ 150.00 soles per person
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Horse (in case of emergency, for trekking parts)
  • Travel luggage and Travel cancellation insurance
  • Not mentioned food and beverages
  • Don’t include first breakfast.
  • Personal spendings
  • Personal camping and climbing equipment such as: sleeping bag, mattress, head lamp, carabiners, boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, helmet, dawn jacket, rainproof pants and jackets, snow glasses, gloves, ATC, Deysi chang, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
  • Tips

WE RECOMEND TO BRING

  • Hiking boots/climbing Boots
  • trekking socks (synthetic fibers)
  • Sun hat
  • Hat for cold weather (fleece)
  • microfiber shirts and thermal
  • Fleece
  • Trekking pants
  • Sunglasses
  • Day Backpack or advance 40 liters
  • waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Pant (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Layer
  • Bottle for water
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulbs)
  • Sunscreen (lips and skin)
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Photographic Material
  • hiking poles
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