Yanapaccha (5460m) and Chopicalqui (6354m)


TIME: 7 days


YANAPACCHA: 5460m Grade Medium Hard / Some Technical Climbing
CHOPICALQUI: 6354m Grade: Hard / Experience Required

This is an exciting two climb challenge for strong clients with some previous climbing experience, culminating in tackling 6354m Chopicalqui. Both peaks are accessed from the LLanganuco Valley, location of the famous twin lakes of LLanganuco. Previous experience of climbing on steep hard ice is highly recommended

Yanapaccha is a moderately difficult climb with some steep sections and a final slope of up to 65 deg. to the summit. Yanapaccha is a superb preparation peak for more technical & physically demanding climbing on Chopicalqui.

Chopicalqui is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep ice climbing. The route begins following a major glacier uphill, and then steepens onto a broad ridge with route-finding skills needed. Higher up the ridge narrows and steepens, and while it is not highly technical it is exposed in some places. Most of the climb is on snow slopes of 40 to 50 deg.

DAY 1: Huaraz to Yanapaccha Morena Camp

Drive from Huaraz approximately 2 ½ hours to the Quebrada LLanganuco Valley & up towards the Portachuelo de LLanganuco pass. We stop at a hairpin bend known as the “Curva 45km” (4580m). From here, we hike towards Yanapaccha Morena Camp, carrying our backpacks as we traverse and climb gradually until we reach the campsite (5000m).

DAY 2: Camp to Summit Yanapaccha. Relocate to Chopicalqui Base Camp.

We leave very early in the morning for a 30 minute climb from camp to Yanapaccha glacier.
On the glacier the climb to the summit includes some steep ice walls including some short pitches of gradients up to 65 deg. mixed with easier traverses.
We return back to Morena Camp (about 7 to 8 hours for the climb & return) and then after lunch and packing up the camp, we walk back the same path back to the road & relocate to Chopicalqui Base Camp 4430m.

DAY 3: REST DAY at Chopicalqui Base Camp

DAY 4: CarryGear from Chopicalqui Base Camp to Moraine Camp

We climb up over large glacial moraine rocks to Morena (Moraine) Camp (4820m). 5 to 6 hours.

DAY 5: Moraine Camp to High Camp

Climb up moraine rock for 1½ hours before reaching the glacier. Then 3 to 4 hours of steady climbing on up to 30 deg. of crevassed snow slopes which we’ll negotiate carefully to avoid crevasses before reaching High Camp, on snow, at 5380m.

DAY 6: High Camp to Chopicalqu Summit. Down to High or Moraine Camp

Climb to the summit. The first 2 to 3 hours are steady climbing. There are crevasses and seracs to avoid as we climb 30 to 50 deg. slopes to the summit shoulder. From the summit shoulder the difficulty of climbing is mixed with some easy 45 deg. slopes to sections of steep up to 85 deg. technical climbing. From the summit we descend back by climbing and abseiling to High Camp; if you are feeling strong, we can continue back down to Moraine Camp. 10 to 13 hours for that day.

DAY 7: To the Road, then Vehicle back to Huaraz

Descend to Base Camp – 5 to 6 hours – then return to the road head and on to Huaraz in our private vehicle. There is an option to add one day extra (8 days total) if you would like an extra rest day or a reserve day for bad weather.