Nevado Mateo (5150m)

 

mateo

 

It’s one of the few mountains which combines scenic beauty and easy access

Mateo is a day climb in the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz is a challenging glacier walk. To take part on this adventure you need to have good physical condition and need to be well acclimatized to the altitude before attempting to climb this little but spectacular peak that provides fantastic mountain views of some of the biggest mountains of the range such as Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Chacraraju, Contrahiervas, Ulta, Hualcan and many others.

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PISCO (5753 M)

P1030988

DIFFICULTY: Easy – Moderate

DURATION: 3 Days

RECOMENDED TIME: From May to September

LOCATION: Cordillera Blanca

AVARAGE TEMPERATURE: During the day between 18° C  to 20° C / During the night between -5°C  and on the top  -10°C

Pisco is one of the most popular mountains in Cordillera Blanca mainly for two reasons, Its location and the breathtaking view that offers from the summit. The locations among highest mountains such as Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Huandoy and Chacraraju are amazing and it offers one of the most spectacular views of The Cordillera Blanca.

Pisco is quite easy to climb and you don’t need previous experience of mountaineering if you climb with a certified mountain guide.

ITENERARY

DAY 1HUARAZ – CEBOLLAPAMPA 3900m – BASE CAMP 4650m / PISCO REFUGE

We will leave Huaraz early in the morning in our private bus which will transfer us till Cebollapampa (3900m) from this site we’ll start the hike up for around 3-4h to the base camp (4650m) or the Pisco Refugee. in the afternoon you are going to have a short briefing focusing on the climbing for the next day

DAY2: BASE CAMP 4650m TO THE SUMMIT 5752m. – BASE CAMP

This day we will wake-up at around midnight or 1:00 a.m. and after a very light breakfast we start ealking by the moraine for aprox 2 .5 hours then over the glacier by 4 hours. The moraine is a bit rocky but as soon we reach glacier it turns the hike lighter, after this long hike up and climb we reach the summit together with the sunrise. Pisco’s Summit offers one of the Best views in the entire Cordillera Blanca, after taking pictures for the memory we we’ll descend by the same way till get our base camp

DAY 3: BASE CAMP – CEBOLLAPAMPA

We have breakfast at 8:00 am aprox, After that we’ll walk down to Cebollapampa from where the bus takes us back to Huaraz

*optional: if you didn’t visit Lake 69, we can visit on our way down  walking by a nice trail which connects to the Lake and return by the normal route.

SERVICES  INCLUDED

  • Acclimatization tour to Churup lake 4450M.
  • Meal (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • North face tent (04 season)
  • Kitchen tent (Base Camp)
  • Dining tent (Base Camp)
  • Toilet tent(Base Camp)
  • Certificated Mountain  guide ( English spoken)
  • Certificated cook
  • Donkeys
  • Donkey driver.
  • Kitchen and dining full utensils. Chair, table, stove, gas, plates, caps, forks (Base Camp)
  • first aid kit
  • private transport
  • Porters
  • Hot water to clean up your hands and face.
  • Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
  • Include last day typical dinner and drink
  • rope, ice peaks, ice screw

SERVICES  NOT INCLUDED

  • International flights to Lima / Peru
  • Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz and Huaraz – Lima
  • Lost luggage
  • Hotel in Huaraz and Lima
  • Meals in restaurants in Huaraz and Lima
  • transaction fee not included in total
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park, s/ 150.00 soles per person
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Horse (in case of emergency, for trekking parts)
  • Travel luggage and Travel cancellation insurance
  • Not mentioned food and beverages
  • Don’t include first breakfast.
  • Personal spendings
  • Personal camping and climbing equipment such as: sleeping bag, mattress, head lamp, carabiners, boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, helmet, dawn jacket, rainproof pants and jackets, snow glasses, gloves, ATC, Deysi chang, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
  • Tips

WE RECOMEND TO BRING

  • Hiking boots/climbing Boots
  • trekking socks (synthetic fibers)
  • Sun hat
  • Hat for cold weather (fleece)
  • microfiber shirts and thermal
  • Fleece
  • Trekking pants
  • Sunglasses
  • Day Backpack or advance 40 liters
  • waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Pant (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Layer
  • Bottle for water
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulbs)
  • Sunscreen (lips and skin)
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Photographic Material
  • hiking poles

HUASCARAN (6768m)

 

IMG_20170810_145518

DIFFICULTY:  hard

DURATION: 6- 7 Days

RECOMENDED TIME: From June to September

LOCATION: Cordillera Blanca

AVARAGE TEMPERATURE: During the day between 14° C  to 20° C

During the night between -15°C  and on the top  -25°C

Huascaran is the highest mountain of Peru, and the highest of any mountains situated in the tropics. It is the principal objective of many climbers that visit the Cordillera Blanca. Although not especially technical, the altitude makes it a challenging mountain to climb. A previous, good acclimatization program is essential, and we always recommend an acclimatization trek followed by a preparation peak such as Pisco, Vallunaraju or Yanapaccha.

ITENERARY

DAY 1: HUARAZ  3100M – MANCOS VILLAGE 2500M – MUSHO VILLAGE 3000M – HUASCARAN’S BASE CAMP 4200M

Departure from Huaraz at 7:00 am. toward north side of Callejon de Huaylas until Mancos at 2500m, after that we will drive on dirt road until reach Musho village, where we will meet with the donkey driver and donkeys, who are going to transport our climbing gear until the base camp at 4200m.

* Driving time: 2 hours / walking time: 4- 5 hours

DAY 2: FROM HUASCARAN’S BASE CAMP 4200M   TO CAMP 1 (5350M).

This day after we’ll have breakfast at 8:00 am, after that we will put on our climbing gear, to start walking up on rocky section crossing the moraine camp located at 4850m, we will continue our way moving on rocky path until reach the glacier edge, then we will traverse the glacier to reach the camp 1 at 5350m. where we’ll set up our campsite.

*Climbing time: 5- 6 Hours

DAY 3: FROM CAMP 1 5350M TO CAMP 2 (6000M).

After our breakfast we will start climbing up toward the col passing on the way up by a little bit dangerous avalanche site until reach the col in the middle of couple peaks, in the afternoon we will enjoy one of the most impressive sunsets in the whole Cordillera Blanca. Overnight camp at Huascaran second high camp.

*Climbing time: 4 Hours

DAY 4: FROM CAMP 2 6000M – HUASCARAN SUMMIT (6768M SOUTHSIDE) – DESCENT TO CAMP 2

This day we will have breakfast at midnight then we start walking up on switchbacks with some steep and slope sections, after 7 hours climbing up we will reach the southside summit at 6768m, from the summit we will have a breathtaking view to the cordillera Blanca, then we descend on the same route on rappels at difficult parts until get to our campsite.

*Climbing time: 10- 12 hours (ascent & descent).

DAY 5: DESCENT FROM CAMP 2  TO  BASE CAMP

This day we will get up early too to pick up our tents and all the equipment to start descending until the base camp, during our descend we will be careful because there are some parts which are dangerous because of the seracs, our guide will tell you which route to follow and how to descend. We will get to the base camp at around 8- 9 am. Once here you’ll have breakfast and spend the rest of the day lying to recover energy.

*descent:5 hours (descent).

DAY 6: DESCENT FROM BASE CAMP TO MUSHO – HUARAZ

We’ll have breakfast at 7:00 am then we’ll get ready to continue the way down the same path until get to Musho where our private van will be waiting to take us back to Huaraz city

SERVICES  INCLUDED

  • Acclimatization tour to Churup lake 4450M.
  • Meal (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • North face tent (04 season)
  • Kitchen tent (Base Camp)
  • Dining tent (Base Camp)
  • Toilet tent(Base Camp)
  • Certificated Mountain  guide ( English spoken)
  • Certificated cook
  • Donkeys
  • Donkey driver.
  • Kitchen and dining full utensils. Chair, table, stove, gas, plates, caps, forks (Base Camp)
  • first aid kit
  • private transport
  • Porters
  • Hot water to clean up your hands and face.
  • Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
  • Include last day typical dinner and drink
  • rope, ice peaks, ice screw

SERVICES  NOT INCLUDED

  • International flights to Lima / Peru
  • Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz and Huaraz – Lima
  • Lost luggage
  • Hotel in Huaraz and Lima
  • Meals in restaurants in Huaraz and Lima
  • transaction fee not included in total
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park, s/ 150.00 soles per person
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Horse (in case of emergency, for trekking parts)
  • Travel luggage and Travel cancellation insurance
  • Not mentioned food and beverages
  • Don’t include first breakfast.
  • Personal spendings
  • Personal camping and climbing equipment such as: sleeping bag, mattress, head lamp, carabiners, boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, helmet, dawn jacket, rainproof pants and jackets, snow glasses, gloves, ATC, Deysi chang, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
  • Tips

WE RECOMEND TO BRING

  • Hiking boots/climbing Boots
  • trekking socks (synthetic fibers)
  • Sun hat
  • Hat for cold weather (fleece)
  • microfiber shirts and thermal
  • Fleece
  • Trekking pants
  • Sunglasses
  • Day Backpack or advance 40 liters
  • waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Pant (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Layer
  • Bottle for water
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulbs)
  • Sunscreen (lips and skin)
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Photographic Material
  • hiking poles

QUITARAJU (6036M)

Timimg: 7 days

Grade: Technical

QuitarajuQuitaraju is a great peak for climbers wanting a more technical challenge with less difficulty and exposure than Alpamayo. It is climbed from the same base camp as Alpamayo, and offers amazing close up views of Alpamayo.

DAY1: Drive 3 hours from Huaraz to Cashapampa. then hike to Llamacorral 3750m. 4 to 5 hours

DAY2: -Hike to Base Camp at the top of the Quebrada Arhuaycocha 4250m. 4 to 5 hours

DAY3: Rest Day while the porters carry gear to High Camp

DAY4: First climbing on moraine rock, then on sometimes steep ice & snow to High Camp. 5450m 5 to 6 hours

DAY5: We start early in the morning and climb slopes up to 60º to 70 º to the summit. For larger groups or inexperienced climbers we will use fixed rope, and rappel is needed to descend. 8 to 9 hours for the day

DAY6: Return to Base Camp. 5 to 6 hours

DAY7: Return to Cashapampa. 7 to 8 hours and return to Huaraz in our private van

ALPAMAYO 5,952 Mt.

alpamayo

DIFFICULTY: AD+ very hard- technical

DURATION: 6- 7 Days

RECOMENDED TIME: From May 15th  to September 15th

LOCATION: Cordillera Blanca

AVARAGE TEMPERATURE: During the day between 14° C  to 23° C

During the night between -10°C  and on the top  -18°C

Alpamayo is an amazing pyramid of ice and snow flutings, once voted to be the most beautiful mountain in the world. The climb to the summit is steep & technical, and is suitable for experienced climbers only. We advise warm-up climbs on one or two peaks beforehand. The beautiful wall of Alpamayo is about 60 degrees with a steeper last part – about 70-80 degrees.

In the itinerary there is one extra day in case of bad weather or the need to acclimatize more.

ITENERARY

DAY 01: HUARAZ 3100M – CASHAPAMPA 2900 M – LLAMACORRAL 3760M.

After the breakfast in the hotel we will aboard in our private bus to go along the Callejón de Huaylas in the north side of Huaraz. passing the different districts such as: Carhuas 2650m, Yungay 2500m, after this city, we will get the Caraz city 2250m, then we will continue our travel to get the last Distrit Cashapampa arriving around 10:00am , where the Donkey Driver will be waiting for us to carry our luggage with the donkies , from here we will start hiking up, after walking 2 hours half we will have lunch, then we will continue hiking up, after hiking up for 5 or 6 hours we will get the first camp which is called “Llamacorral 3760m”

DAY 02: LLAMACORRAL – BASE CAMP ARHUAYCOCHA 4250M.

This day we will hike along the valley enjoying amazing landscapes and variety geographical features including the beautiful turquoise lakes called Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha,  following our ways will continue  climbing up to the Alpamayo Base Camp 4250m, Once we have arrived here we’ll set up our campsite and check our climbing gears for the next day,

DAY 03: BASE CAMP 4250M – ALPAMAYO’S MORAINE CAMP 4900M.

After the breakfast we will start climbing up for about 3 hours rocky path and get the Moraine camp located at 4900m. where you are going to enjoy from splendor views of the mountains such as Artesonraju, Paria, Pucajirca and others

DAY 04: ALPAMAYO’S MORAINE CAMP – CAMP I  5550M

After breakfast, we will climb the glacier for about 4 hours and a half, where we will put our climbing equipments to continue climbing, then we will get the camp 1 and will have dinner later afternoon and rest, overnight camping at 5550 M.

DAY 05: CAMP 1- ALPAMAYO’s SUMMIT 5952M – CAMP I

This day the breakfast will be at 2 or 3:00am in the morning, and we will start climbing using head lamps, and after 1 hour approximately walking on the snow we will get the base of the wall (French route) the inclination is approximate 60° to 70°, then we will start climbing the wall, and after 2 or 3 hours climbing we will get the summit 5952m, where you will appreciate a breathtaking scenery from the white mountain range with many different peaks. After enjoying the view for few minutes, we will descend rappelling with the help of the professional UIAGM guide, arriving to our campsite you can rest in the afternoon, overnight in the glacier at 5550m.

DAY 06: DESCEND FROM CAMP I TO BASE CAMP

After the breakfast in the Camp 1, we will take the same route to go back to the Moraine Camp, then we will continue going down to the Base Camp, arriving to the Base Camp around 3:00pm and overnight camping in the Base Camp at 4250m.

DAY 07: BASE CAMP – CASHAPAMPA – HUARAZ

Today we will come back walking down the hill along the Santa Cruz valley enjoying the nice view of Jatuncocha and Ichiccocha Lake, till Cashapampa, where the van will be waiting for us to transfer us to Huaraz, for about 3 hours and a half.

 

SERVICES  INCLUDED

  • Acclimatization tour to Churup lake 4450M.
  • Meal ( breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • North face tent (04 season)
  • Kitchen tent (Base Camp)
  • Dining tent (Base Camp)
  • Toilet tent(Base Camp)
  • Certificated Mountain  guide ( English spoken)
  • Certificated cook
  • Donkeys
  • Donkey driver.
  • Kitchen and dining full utensils. Chair, table, stove, gas, plates, caps, forks (Base Camp)
  • first aid kit
  • private transport
  • Porters
  • Hot water to clean up your hands and face.
  • Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
  • Include last day typical dinner and drink
  • rope, ice peaks, ice screw

SERVICES  NOT INCLUDED

  • International flights to Lima / Peru
  • Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz and Huaraz – Lima
  • Lost luggage
  • Hotel in Huaraz and Lima
  • Meals in restaurants in Huaraz and Lima
  • transaction fee not included in total
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park, s/ 150.00 soles per person
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Horse (in case of emergency, for trekking parts)
  • Travel luggage and Travel cancellation insurance
  • Not mentioned food and beverages
  • Don’t include first breakfast.
  • Personal spendings
  • Personal camping and climbing equipment such as: sleeping bag, mattress, head lamp, carabiners, boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, helmet, dawn jacket, rainproof pants and jackets, snow glasses, gloves, ATC, Deysi chang, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
  • Tips

WE RECOMEND TO BRING

  • Hiking boots/climbing Boots
  • trekking socks (synthetic fibers)
  • Sun hat
  • Hat for cold weather (fleece)
  • microfiber shirts and thermal
  • Fleece
  • Trekking pants
  • Sunglasses
  • Day Backpack or advance 40 liters
  • waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Pant (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Layer
  • Bottle for water
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulbs)
  • Sunscreen (lips and skin)
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Photographic Material
  • hiking poles

PISCO – YANAPACCHA

imagesTIMING: 5
GRADE: MODERATE

Day 1: Huaraz -Cebollapampa (3850m)- Base Camp (4650m 

From Huaraz, we will take a shuttle to Cebollapampa (approx. 2 to 3 hours). On the way, you will be able to appreciate amazing sights such as two beautiful lagoons: Chinancocha (lag. Hembra) and Orconcocha (lag. Macho). We will follow the Llanguna Valley to Cebollapampa. From there, we will begin the hike to Base camp, where we will camp for the night. The hike will last approx. 2 to 3 hours.

Day 2: base camp- Summit (5752m)- Base Camp 

We will start hiking at 1 am, crossing through a few moraines on the way to the glacier. Then, we will climb a slope (35°-40° of inclination) until we reach the peak, where we will be rewarded with spectacular views, such as the gigantic Chacraraju, the Artesonraju, Huandoys, Caraz, Huascaran and Alpamayo amongst others. After we will descend to Base Camp. Approx. 6 to 7 hours.

Day 3: Base Camp – Cebollapampa/Cebollapampa 

On the third day, we will go back down to Cebollapampa/Yuraccorral, where we will camp for the night. 1h30 to 2h of descent.

Day 4: Yuraccoral – Morraine Camp Yanapaccha 

We will go until we reach Kilometer 42 by transport Once there, we will start our hike, going through Morraine camp. Approx. 3.5 hrs of transport and a 4-hour walk.

Day 5:Campo Morena – Cumbre (5460) – Campo Morrena (5000m) – Huaraz 
We will start hiking the ascent at 3 am, crossing a moraine until we reach the wide glacier. We will then climb the 180m Wall (50-60°) until we reach the summit. There, we will enjoy spectacular views of glaciers, such as the Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Pisco, Huandoy and others. Later, we will start descending via a ridge, with views of the Chacraraju, to the moraine and will carry on until km 42 where our transport will be waiting for us.
The ascent is approx. 5 to 6 hours. The descent to camp is approx. 3 to 4 hours.

CHOPICALLQUI (6354m)

yanapaccha-chopicalqui-climbing1DIFFICULTY:  hard/ Experience required

DURATION: 2-3 Days

RECOMENDED TIME: From May to September

LOCATION: Cordillera Blanca

AVARAGE TEMPERATURE: During the day between 13° C  to 23° C

During the night between -5°C to -2°C  and on the top  -10°C

Chopicalqui is a demanding peak to climb, with sections of steep ice climbing. The route begins following a major glacier uphill, and then steepens onto a broad ridge with route-finding skills needed. Higher up the ridge narrows and steepens, and while it is not highly technical it is exposed in some places. Most of the climb is on snow slopes of 40 to 50 deg.

ITENERARY

DAY 01: HUARAZ – LLANGANUCO – CHOPICALQUI’S BASE CAMP 4200 m.

After the breakfast in the Hotel we will aboard the private bus to go along the Callejón de Huaylas in the north side of Huaraz, after driving for 2 hours approx. we will register in the National Park Control, passing the Llanganuco lakes Chinancocha and Orconcocha, till curva de chopicallqui where we will have Lunch, then in the early afternoon we will start walking for 02 hours uphill to the Ancush Valley between Huascaran and Chopicalqui, we will arrive to the Base Camp at around 3:00 pm.

DAY 02: BASE CAMP – MORAINE CAMP 4700M 

After the breakfast in the Base Camp we will hike up to the Moraine Camp for about 4 hours, during this hike we will enjoy the splendid view in the north site like Pisco, Huandoy and Chacraraju peaks, lunch along the way, after arriving to the camp in the afternoon we will check our climbing equipment for the next day, and early dinner and overnight Camping at (4700m).

DAY 03: MORAINE CAMP – CAMP 1 OF CHOPICALQUI 5500M 

After the breakfast we will climb up moraine rock for 1½ hours before reaching the glacier. Then 3 to 4 hours of steady climbing on up to 30 deg. of crevassed snow slopes which we’ll negotiate carefully to avoid crevasses before reaching Camp 1, on snow, at 5500m

DAY 04: CAMP 1 – CLIMB UP CHOPICALQUI – MORAINE CAMP 4700M 

Climb to the summit. This day is the most important and a little hard to climb, we will leave at 1:00 am in the morning after a light breakfast, climbing for about 5 to 06 hours to the summit (6,354m). The first 2 to 3 hours are steady climbing. There are crevasses and seracs to avoid as we climb 30 to 50 deg. slopes to the summit shoulder. From the summit shoulder the difficulty of climbing is mixed with some easy 45 deg. slopes to sections of steep up to 85 deg. technical climbing.  In the way we will find steep pieces where to climb cooparating with your leader guide so after enjoying the views of Huascaran, Huandoy, Contrahierba, Pisco, Chacraraju mountain. From the summit we descend back by climbing and abseiling to Camp1 where the cook will be waiting with hot drinking and something to eat,

*10 to 13 hours for that day.

DAY 05: MORAINE CAMP – BASE CAMP – HUARAZ

After the last breakfast in the Moraine Camp of Chopicalqui, we will descend to the Base Camp for about 1 hour half, continue walking down to the highway called Curva de Chopicalqui, where our transfer will be waiting for us, from here to Yungay will take 2 hours, along this travel we will pass the Llanganuco lake and then we will arrive to Huascaran National Park Control, where we will register with our passport, then we will continue go down to Yungay, after this we will continue traveling along the Callejon de Huaylas to Huaraz for about 1 hour more. Arriving to Huaraz at around 17:00 hours approximately.

CHOPI

SERVICES  INCLUDED

  • Acclimatization tour to Churup lake 4450M.
  • Meal (breakfast, snack, lunch, tea time, dinner)
  • North face tent (04 season)
  • Kitchen tent (Base Camp)
  • Dining tent (Base Camp)
  • Toilet tent(Base Camp)
  • Certificated Mountain  guide ( English spoken)
  • Certificated cook
  • Donkeys
  • Donkey driver.
  • Kitchen and dining full utensils. Chair, table, stove, gas, plates, caps, forks (Base Camp)
  • first aid kit
  • private transport
  • Porters
  • Hot water to clean up your hands and face.
  • Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
  • Include last day typical dinner and drink
  • rope, ice peaks, ice screw

SERVICES  NOT INCLUDED

  • International flights to Lima / Peru
  • Bus ticket Lima – Huaraz and Huaraz – Lima
  • Lost luggage
  • Hotel in Huaraz and Lima
  • Meals in restaurants in Huaraz and Lima
  • transaction fee not included in total
  • Entrance fee to Huascarán National Park, s/ 150.00 soles per person
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Horse (in case of emergency, for trekking parts)
  • Travel luggage and Travel cancellation insurance
  • Not mentioned food and beverages
  • Don’t include first breakfast.
  • Personal spendings
  • Personal camping and climbing equipment such as: sleeping bag, mattress, head lamp, carabiners, boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, helmet, dawn jacket, rainproof pants and jackets, snow glasses, gloves, ATC, Deysi chang, appropriate clothes, personal medicines, etc.)
  • Tips

WE RECOMEND TO BRING

  • Hiking boots/climbing Boots
  • trekking socks (synthetic fibers)
  • Sun hat
  • Hat for cold weather (fleece)
  • microfiber shirts and thermal
  • Fleece
  • Trekking pants
  • Sunglasses
  • Day Backpack or advance 40 liters
  • waterproof jacket (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Pant (Gore-Tex or other)
  • Waterproof Layer
  • Bottle for water
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries and bulbs)
  • Sunscreen (lips and skin)
  • Personal First Aid Kit
  • Photographic Material
  • hiking poles