Course

Your first time on a glaciated mountain and you want to be prepared for it? Or have you previously been on a high mountain with a guide, but you want to take another step and really know what is happening? Well this thing is for you!

This trip will allow you to have a through grounding in basic mountaineering skills. By the end you will have enough in the way of skills, as well as the confidence gained from the achievement, to go on to greater things in the future.

Make an anchor! Crevasse rescue training on the flanks of Yanapaccha (5460m). Cordillera Blanca. Peru.
Make an anchor! Crevasse rescue training on the flanks of Yanapaccha (5460m). Cordillera Blanca. Peru.

We cover an array of essential skills. Mountain hazards on snowy, or ice peaks, walking techniques on snow/ice with crampons, rope team travel, climbing knot techniques, belay systems, self arrest, top rope management, vertical ice climbing, full crevasse rescue techniques. Once you have these skills, the course can be followed by guided ascents of (a) suitable peak(s).

Example of a basic mountaineering course, followed by a climb of Yanapaccha (5460m), a technical mountain for beginners:

Day 01
– leave Huaraz to Yungay + taxi ride to the trailheid high up in the Llanganuco valley within the Huascaran National Park
– approach moraine camp (4800m), a 2 to 3h walk
– practice basic mountaineering knots
Day 02
– practice walking in crampons on glacier, practice self-arrest
– practice ice-climbing, rappel and self-anchoring
Day 03
– practise crevasse rescue techniques in base camp
Day 04
– practise crevasse rescue techniques in a real crevasse on Yanapaccha’s glacier
– practice ice-climbing, rappel and self-anchoring
Day 05 – climbing Yanapaccha (5460m)
– wake-up at 3hs30 AM for breakfast
– at 04hs leave moraine and arrive at glacier 04hs30
– climb towards summit (5400m) for 3hours (aprox. 7hs30 on summit)
– rappel and walk down for 2 hours
– rest and evaluation
Day 06 – back to Huaraz
– walk down back to the road for 2 hours
– transport back to Huaraz

Ice climbing on Yanapaccha's glacier. Cordillera Blanca. Peru.
Ice climbing on Yanapaccha’s glacier. Cordillera Blanca. Peru.
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